The Lyst Index is a quarterly ranking of fashion’s hottest brands and products.
To compile the results, global fashion search platform Lyst analyses the online shopping behaviour of more than nine million shoppers a month searching, browsing and buying fashion across 12,000 designers and stores online. The formula behind The Lyst Index takes into account global Lyst and Google search data, conversion rates and sales, as well as brand and product social media mentions and engagement statistics worldwide over a three month period.
Q1 2020
Hottest Brands
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1
Off-White
- Launched the Activate Movement programme with Evian
- Released a Lunar New Year capsule collection
- Debuted Off-White x Air Jordan IV at Paris Fashion Week
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2
Balenciaga
- Released koala hoodies to raise funds for Australia’s bushfire relief
- Flooded the runway for apocalyptic Paris Fashion Week show
- Parent company Kering said the brand would manufacture surgical masks in response to Covid-19
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3
Nike
- Released ‘Mamba Forever’ ad in tribute to Kobe Bryant
- Announced a multi-year partnership with Liverpool FC
- Donated over $15 million to the Covid-19 response effort
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4
Gucci
- Reported 10.5% revenue growth for the previous quarter
- Released a Mickey Mouse collection for Chinese New Year
- Pledged to donate €2 million in response to Covid-19
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5
Prada
- Raf Simons joined Prada as co-creative director
- Partnered with the UNESCO on an education programme
- Funded two new ICUs in three of Milan’s hospitals in response to Covid-19
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6
Moncler
- Reported 13% revenue growth for FY 2019
- Tapped JW Anderson and Rimowa for its Genius project
- Donated €10 million to a Milan hospital project in response to Covid-19
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7
Fendi
- Launched a capsule collection for Chinese New Year
- Teamed up with model Winnie Harlow for its #BaguetteFriendsForever campaign
- The Carla Fendi Foundation donated €100,000 in response to Covid-19
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8
Valentino
- Unveiled a sneaker collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger
- Opened a pop-up store in Beverly Hills
- Parent company Mayhoola donated €2 million in response to Covid-19
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9
Saint Laurent
- Announced that 2019 turnover surpassed €2 billion
- Released a Valentine’s Day capsule collection
- Parent company Kering said the brand would manufacture surgical masks in response to Covid-19
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10
Versace
- Presented women’s and men’s collections on the runway together for the first time
- Announced new flagship stores in Paris and London
- Donated over $850,000 in response to Covid-19
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11
Burberry
- Held a carbon neutral show at London Fashion Week
- Launched an AR shopping tool with Google Search
- Committed to supply surgical masks in response to Covid-19
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12
Stone Island
- Launched exclusives with retailers Browns, END and Luisa via Roma
- Unveiled installation by artist Ken-Tonio Yamamoto in Milan store
- Rumoured to consider buying a stake in soccer club Modena F.C.
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13
Bottega Veneta
- Reported 9.4% sales growth for the previous quarter
- Unveiled a 100% biodegradable boot in the Fall/Winter ‘20 collection
- Launched the Residency programme to promote hope and happiness during the Covid-19 crisis.
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14
Givenchy
- Appointed a new CEO, Renaud de Lesquen
- Released its Spring/Summer ‘20 campaign, fronted by Marc Jacobs and Charlotte Rampling
- Parent company LVMH said the brand’s fragrance arm would make hand sanitiser in response to Covid-19
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15
Jacquemus
- Showed women’s and men’s collections together for Fall/Winter ‘20
- Simon Porte Jacquemus announced he would feature in a series of free online fashion courses
- Unveiled a jewellery version of its Le Chiquito bag
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16
Vetements
- Sent celebrity lookalikes down the runway for Fall/Winter ‘20
- Announced a collaboration of special edition bottles with Evian
- Released its latest Spike Runner 200 sneakers in collaboration with Reebok
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17
Raf Simons
- Unveiled a new line of sportswear-influenced footwear
- Collaborated with Dr. Martens to celebrate the boot’s 60th anniversary
- Released an 11th collaboration collection with Fred Perry
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18
Loewe
- Announced athlete Megan Rapinoe as face of the Autumn/Winter ‘20 campaign
- Revealed the 30 finalists for the 2020 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize
- Released the third Eye/LOEWE/Nature outdoors wear collection
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19
Thom Browne
- Presented women’s and men’s collections together for Fall/Winter ‘20
- Created a sports-inspired collection for Nordstrom’s New Concepts pop-up programme
- Released a co-branded Galaxy Z flip phone with Samsung
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20
Rick Owens
- Unveiled a Rick Owens tour bus in collaboration with Moncler
- Partnered with Champion on a sportswear collection
- Collaborated with Veja on two sustainable sneakers
28
Fashion faces up to a new normal
If 2019 ended on a note of optimism for the coming decade, the events of 2020’s first quarter quickly put a damper on it. After geopolitical tensions rose, wild fires ravaged Australia and Covid-19 gripped Asia, Balenciaga captured the uneasy mood with its ‘end of the world’ themed runway show held in Paris at the beginning of March.
But few in the fashion industry and beyond could have imagined what would come next. Within a matter of weeks coronavirus had evolved into a global crisis, changing everyday life beyond recognition. By the end of the quarter, the headwinds that brands and retailers first felt in China and East Asia had become a worldwide storm.
As vast swathes of the economy ground to a halt and populations were confined to their homes in response to the virus, consumer confidence fell and fashion was hit by an immediate drop in demand. Suddenly purchases were no longer being driven by social occasions, holidays and the need for office wear. And the well of inspiration consumers find from roving celebrities, glamorous events and street style photography started to dry up. On the supply side, meanwhile, coronavirus disrupted the industry in everything from sourcing raw materials through to manufacturing, logistics and retail operations – both bricks-and-mortar and online.
The Lyst Index for Q1 therefore reflects a period which has been anything but ‘business as usual’ in significant parts of Asia for most of the three months; and in Europe and North America for the final weeks of the quarter. The upcoming Q2 report will paint a clearer picture of Covid-19’s global impact, but for now, based on the Q1 data, consumers’ brand allegiances remain largely unchanged.
Off-White is the hottest brand in the world for the third successive quarter, reflecting the influence of younger shoppers who champion the label’s anti-establishment take on luxury. With a digital native approach, both Off-White (which surpassed 10m Instagram followers this quarter) and founder Virgil Abloh (5.2m followers) have a highly engaged social media following. Now more than ever, with consumers confined to their homes, seeking connections online, this type of loyal community is invaluable for brands. A New York Times article in February comparing Virgil Abloh to the late Karl Lagerfeld was widely shared online, helping to keep Off-White one of the most talked-about brands in fashion.
Following the buzz surrounding its Fall/Winter ‘20 show, Balenciaga rises one place to reclaim its position as 2nd hottest brand in the world, last held by the label in Q3 2019. Meanwhile Nike is among the fastest risers this quarter, climbing nine places into 3rd position – edging Gucci (now 4th) out of the top three for the first time since The Lyst Index began. The sportswear giant was propelled by a series of powerful global brand initiatives as well as increased consumer demand for products such as hoodies, sweatpants and shorts.
Coming in at 5th place, Prada climbs two places in The Lyst Index hottest brands ranking following the announcement in February that Belgian designer Raf Simons would become co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada. The news also saw Raf Simons’ namesake label enter the hottest brands list for the second time ever, rising 12 positions to place 17th this quarter.
Jacquemus enters The Lyst Index hottest brands ranking for the first time, with the label’s accessories having previously made the hottest products section. The French brand climbs seven places to reach 15th position, after its supermodel-heavy Fall/Winter ‘20 show boosted social media mentions by over 1,100%. The other new entrants this quarter are Thom Browne and Rick Owens, both eponymous labels of US designers, each with a distinctive and consistent aesthetic.
At the time of writing the global outlook for fashion remains uncertain and fragmented, but there are green shoots of recovery in some of the earliest affected regions. We’ll continue to monitor the data closely, examining how shoppers respond to ‘the new normal’ of social distancing and economic uncertainty, while hoping for a swift return to better times. Although the crisis is far from over, it is galvanising to see the fashion industry pull together and draw on its resources, creativity and grit to weather the storm and give back to the community.
What does The Lyst Index tell us about the impact of Covid-19?
The Lyst Index shows that consumer allegiance to powerful brands remains strong, even in these uncertain times. But the way in which people interact with brands and shop for fashion is changing fast. The Covid-19 crisis is accelerating shifts that were already happening in our industry, and catalysing further changes. In this unprecedented moment, digital is more important than ever to fashion brands. Information and communication are key for our community. Those who adapt quickly to the changing landscape, using data-backed decisions while drawing on their core strengths, will be best placed to thrive.
Hottest Products
To find the world’s hottest products, Lyst’s formula filters more than six million items by volume of social media mentions, searches, page views, interactions and sales across thousands of online stores. We group colours for styles, and take into account global demand per volume of stock available.
Q1 2020
Hottest Women's Products
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Bottega Veneta padded Cassette bag
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Off-White soft lace bodysuit
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Telfar shopping bag
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Gucci GG pattern tights
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Anine Bing tiger sweatshirt
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Adidas x Beyoncé Ivy Park super sleek 72 sneakers
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New Balance 993 sneakers
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Nike Air fleece joggers
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Ganni cotton shirt
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Pre-owned Chanel classic double flap bag
Coronavirus changes the way we shop
Telfar enters The Lyst Index for the first time with its embossed logo tote bag, this quarter’s 3rd hottest women’s product. Founded in 2005 by Liberian-American designer Telfar Clemens, the 15-year-old label has built a powerful brand around its inclusive message, “it’s not for you, it’s for everyone.” Retailing for less than $300 and averaging 30,000 searches a month, the vegan leather bag frequently sells out across retailers. The popularity of the unisex style, worn by the likes of singer Solange Knowles and rapper A$AP Ferg, has propelled the label beyond its New York City roots: searches for Telfar are up 29% in Europe this quarter.
As shoppers around the world continue to adapt to life in self-isolation, demand for statement loungewear pieces has risen. Anine Bing’s tiger sweatshirt is the 5th hottest women’s product of the quarter. Page views of the sweatshirt spiked 418% in the week following the release of Netflix’s Tiger King series, while searches for the eponymous brand, which counts powerful influencers such as models Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley among its fans, rose 19% this quarter.
New Balance sneakers enter the women’s hottest products list for the first time in 7th position. Retailing at $175, searches for the brand’s 993 running shoes peaked in February. Following a successful collaboration with NYC brand Aimé Leon Dore in early 2019 — which reimagined a retro ‘90s New Balance ad campaign featuring an elderly model — as well as a collaboration with Reformation in the last quarter of 2019, demand for New Balance sneakers has been growing worldwide in terms of both searches and sales. With endorsements by the likes of Kate Middleton, Rihanna and model Kaia Gerber, page views for the brand have increased 41% quarter-on-quarter.
In this period of uncertainty, some shoppers are gravitating towards classic investment pieces, searching for timeless items available pre-owned through luxury resale platforms. Closing the hottest women’s products list as the 10th most popular product, Chanel’s classic double flap bag saw a 75% increase in searches over the quarter.
Perhaps driven by the fact that Chanel does not sell bags through its own website, and with bricks-and-mortar luxury stores shuttered in many markets due to the coronavirus outbreak, demand for these classics has increased on second-hand marketplaces.
Q1 2020
Hottest Men's Products
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Off-White arrow logo face mask
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Loewe Eln fleece zip sweater
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Gucci x Disney hooded sweatshirt
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Nike Kobe 4 Protro Carpe Diem sneakers
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Comme des Garçons Play x Converse Chuck 70 high sneakers
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Stone Island cargo trousers
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Prada logo bolo tie
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Asics gel-pulse 10 sneakers
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Versace ‘I love baroque’ bathrobe
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Thom Browne 4-bar jersey sweatshirt
Fashion face masks rise to the fore
Kicking off a new decade in fashion, this quarter’s hottest products are eclectic and represent global fashion shoppers’ shifting lifestyles and mindsets over the quarter’s three months. Off-White’s arrow face mask is the hottest men’s product in the world. The $95 face mask sold out across retailers worldwide, but is currently listed for up to three times its original price on resale platforms. Streetwear surgical masks are not a new trend. Off-White was among the first to launch branded masks, which have been worn by the likes of rappers Travis Scott, Future and Young Thug since 2016. In January singer Billie Eilish wore a custom Gucci face mask on the Grammy Awards red carpet. But the coronavirus pandemic has seen more labels enter the mask market, and a 496% surge in searches for fashion face masks over the quarter. Millions of shoppers worldwide are searching for masks by Off-White, as well as by Fendi, Bape and Marcelo Burlon.
Also spotted on the red carpet, Prada’s bolo tie takes the 7th spot in the hottest men’s products list. A luxe westernwear trend, championed by rappers Lil Nas X and Quavo, and actor Dylan Sprouse, has caused searches for bolo ties to spike 121% this quarter. When singer Nick Jonas wore a Prada bolo tie to the Golden Globes, demand for the item spiked 78% in 24 hours.
Loewe’s half-zip fleece, from the Eye/LOEWE/Nature outdoors collection, is this quarter’s second hottest men’s product. As worn by actors Timothée Chalamet and Josh O’Connor and singer Justin Bieber, searches for the colourful piece increased by 88% over the quarter. The Spanish label also climbs two places in The Lyst Index’s hottest brands ranking.
The tragic passing of Kobe Bryant in February caused an outpouring of moving tributes from brands, celebrities and consumers worldwide. Sneaker enthusiasts looked for the Nike Kobe 4 Protro Carpe Diem sneakers, this quarter’s 4th hottest product. Following the launch of the Mamba Forever tribute campaign by Nike, which generated over 1 million mentions on social media, page views for sneakers from the long-term collaboration between the brand and the NBA star spiked 733%.
In 8th position, a technical running shoe becomes one of fashion’s hottest products. Since the start of the year, thousands of shoppers have searched for running shoes, with the Asics gel-pulse 10 sneakers the most-wanted men’s style of the quarter. Demand for the running sneakers first spiked in January, and picked up again in March, increasing 64% during the quarter overall. Meanwhile page views for Asics increased 25% over the period.
To request information or images relating to the Lyst Index please contact press@lyst.com
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Photos: Adam Katz Sinding