Fresh Off The Runway

Loewe taps into the ’90s sportswear revival, mixing relaxed tailoring with bright sporty separates, slouchy proportions and pared-back staples. Nostalgic but not costume-y, bringing a more casual, unisex energy to the season.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood continues to blur traditional gender codes, clashing print and pattern on sharp tailoring with draped skirts, cropped knits, scarves and voluminous silhouettes. Deliberately irreverent and theatrical, with traditionally masculine and feminine pieces thrown together to create something that feels entirely Viv.

Reworking polos, sporty separates and relaxed silhouettes in earthy neutrals and flashes of bright color. The Lacoste show was all about a traditional tennis uniform meeting a versatile, gender-neutral sportswear wardrobe.

The boho revival gets a more polished, utilitarian twist at Chloé, where the humble trench is blown up into sweeping, cape-like silhouettes. Oversized collars, cargo pockets and hardware keep the romantic shapes feeling decidedly modern, while sheer layers and floaty hems bring back some of that unmistakable Chloé softness.

More is more at Dries Van Noten, where clashing prints are layered with little concern for whether they technically go together. Florals, graphic motifs and punchy color collide across sheer skirts, embellished knits and statement outerwear, proving that the easiest way to make an outfit interesting is sometimes to simply throw everything at it.

Tom Ford leans into power tailoring, with sharply cut double-breasted suits pulled in at the waist for a more sculpted silhouette. Sleek and sultry rather than corporate, with elongated trousers, deep olive tones and barely-there shirting giving classic suiting a sexier, more relaxed edge.

If Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2027 show is anything to go by, romance is about to get a little more dramatic. Navy and rich shades of blue ran through the collection, but it was the details that made us pay attention: feathers spilling from jackets, oversized floral brooches, ruffles and waistcoats with sweeping tails that felt somewhere between Regency dressing and the New Romantics.

Ten years into Khaite, Catherine Holstein has turned a very specific New York tension into a signature: tough leather against something barely there. For Spring 2027, the shoulders remained strong and the leather suitably serious, but the surprise was how soft everything else became — sheer evening jackets, diaphanous dresses, lingerie-inspired slips and delicate lace moving through the collection.

The J. Press show tapped into the continued Ivy revival, but pushed it beyond straightforward prep through oversized tailoring, voluminous chinos, layered shirting and ties, and chunky knitwear. Heritage outerwear, tweed, Fair Isle, rugby stripes, and loafers gave the collection a distinctly collegiate, autumnal feel, punctuated with bright color injections and playful pattern mixing that skewed the collection away from the more traditional end of the preppy spectrum.

At COS, tailoring was blown up to new proportions. Shoulders stretched wide, jackets fell long and trousers came with enough volume to change the silhouette entirely. It was oversized without feeling sloppy — less about borrowing someone else’s blazer and more about using tailoring to take up space.

The field caps at Burberry’s SS27 show tapped into the season’s growing appetite for outdoors-inspired accessories, giving the traditional military/farmwear shape a more polished, fashion-forward feel. Styled with earthy-toned leather, nylon utility pieces and '70s inspired prints they added a distinctly British countryside-meets-city note to the menswear looks, while reinforcing Daniel Lee’s wider focus on practical, lived-in dressing.

Diesel’s SS27 menswear made a strong case for grunge’s return, with distressed denim, undone tailoring and battered-looking leather giving the collection a deliberately lived-in feel.

Colorful leather was a standout, with washed browns, lavender, mustard and brighter tones pushing the material beyond its usual black-and-brown palette, while exposed skin and slashed, reconstructed pieces added to the rebellious attitude.

Box pleats, pinch pleats, skinny shimmying slivers of pleats. They served up a banquet feast, and we are dining on pleats. We’re taking this as a signifier that the classic, quite frankly underrated, skirt style is making its way back into the fold. Pun intended.

Jil Sander’s SS27 menswear brought a softer, more optimistic mood to minimalism, with pastel shades and unexpected hits of color breaking up the house’s traditionally muted palette. Alongside this, bold, oversized outerwear and cocoon-like silhouettes gave familiar coats and tailoring a more sculptural feel, tapping into the wider move towards relaxed, elongated proportions for next summer.