What’s Behind the Rise of the Divisive Shoe?

The polarising shoe has existed at the forefront of fashion politics for decades. In the past, walking around in a socially unaccepted shoe could lead to not-so-discreet nudges, wide stares or audible sneers. Those of us who owned such anti-trend shoes welcomed the hate as a byproduct of following our intuition — and occasionally, we then looked on in self-satisfaction when the coin eventually flipped, and the same condemned footwear suddenly became ‘cool’.

Now, the movement towards design crossovers has become the force behind the undeniable rise of the divisive shoe. Shoes from seemingly different aesthetics and archetypes are combining to create questionable hybrids — simply cast your mind back to JW Anderson x Wellipets Frog clogs, Balenciaga x Crocs court shoes and MM6 by Maison Margiela’s Ballet mules, and you’ll know what we mean. With searches for the highly anticipated New Balance x Junya Watanabe Loafer up 93% month on month on Lyst, it’s clear that shoppers’ interest in unconventional footwear is still gaining traction. We’re blurring lines and stepping, literally, outside of the box. It feels like the stranger, the better, with many designers accused of ‘fashion trolling’ or using statement shoes as a strategy for provocative marketing.

Our editors, like many of the fashion fluent, are divided in opinion. Personally, I’m partial to a bit of statement footwear. I’ve embraced the ‘Wrong-Shoe Theory’ in all its weirdness and found that seeing the appeal in an ultra-chunky sole or technical-sandal amalgamation can feel like an exclusive club — one where, if you know, you know. Below, we spotlight four nonconformist styles to shop this summer.

Jelly Flats

By now, I’m sure you’re well acquainted with the formidable mesh ballet flats — worn by both fashion people and high-profile celebrities alike — which arrived on the scene under intense scrutiny, only to win permanent spots in so many of our wardrobes. I’d go as far as to say that the mesh flat renewed my faith in the divisive shoe. It should come as no surprise that the return of the nostalgic jelly shoe, in the elevated form of flats, has raised my eyebrows — but not my red flags. I’m intrigued to see how they’re styled by the masses, and may even have my eye on a pair for myself.

Technical Shoes

Boasting both practicality and style, the technical sandal is now a modern staple in hybrid footwear. If you’re darting from the office to an event, or still want to look fashionable while spending the whole day on your feet, then the technical sandal is your hero. Ergonomic yet chic, sporty but stylish, it usually combines two or more conventions of purposeful design — perhaps velcro, lugged soles or buckled uppers — and pairs it with aesthetics more native to a mule, sandal, or even sneaker.

Camper Sandals

Camper

Prada Touch-Strap Sandals

italist

Versace Mercury Sneakers

Versace

Loewe Ease Suede Sandals

Mytheresa

Sculpted Heels

Shoes as sculptural objects can finally thrive off the runway, and whether you love them or hate them, it’s hard to fight the fact that they really are something to look at — and isn’t that kind of the point of fashion in the first place? Although we’ve seen multiple iterations of the sculpted heel over decades, I feel that the sub-genre really came to life when Loewe broke the mould — or, in this case, shell — with its Broken Egg Sandal. Crowd-splitting and conceptual, the sculpted heel can take on subtle forms yet still make an impact.

COS Sculptural-heel Mules

COS

Alaïa Sculptural Mule

SSENSE

Loewe Toy Mule

LOEWE

Jacquemus Les Doubles Sandals

Jacquemus

RAFFIA HEELS

Summer and raffia are an unbreakable duo. From basket weaves to earthy lampshades, a touch of raffia undoubtedly captures the whimsical nature of summer. This season, a raffia shoe is no longer purely imagined in a wedged heel — now, brands have been exposing its full potential by allowing the palm to adorn uppers and impress as an appliqué. It’s art, fashion, and ecology — and, ultimately, it’s a yes from me. There’s something about a full raffia heel that screams ‘I’m on vacation’, even when you’ve not boarded a plane. Polarising? Of course, but where some see heels of straw, I see innovation.