Behind The Lyst Index: The Stealthy Rise of The Row

Luxurious fabrics, impeccable cuts, and sumptuous detailing; it takes more than an eye for design to break into the luxury fashion sphere and become a world-renowned name among heavyweights such as Hermès, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, which have all benefitted from decades — if not centuries — of prestige.

With very few signifiers in terms of branding, a limited social media presence, and a relatively unchanged brand DNA, The Row has quietly been building a cult following since its 2006 launch. With their label becoming the unofficial face of the quiet luxury movement, co-founders Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have themselves become style arbiters for a whole generation of luxury fashion shoppers, winning 6 CFDA awards along the way and filling the sartorial hole left by Phoebe Philo’s departure from Céline in 2017.

Now one of the hottest brands in the world after making its debut in The Lyst Index, it’s easy to see why The Row has captivated fashion shoppers the world over.

Synonymous with timeless elegance and modern minimalism, The Row’s commitment to clean lines, sophisticated silhouettes, and neutral colour palettes is what sets it apart. With quality and exceptional craftsmanship at its core, the label’s pieces are a masterclass in understated opulence, making simple wardrobe foundations feel and look like luxurious and unique must-haves. “Everything Mary-Kate and Ashley do turns to gold,” said Joe Karban, The Row’s production manager at the time, to The New York Times way back in 2009 — and the popularity of the label’s Margaux bag is a testament to their vision.

First introduced in 2018, the capacious tote bag has been growing a large celebrity fanbase that includes the likes of Kendall Jenner, Zoë Kravitz, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Jennifer Lawrence. Now part of the brand’s permanent line of accessories, the heirloom-in-the-making has been reinterpreted in multiple colourways (including black, white, dark taupe and cuir), fabrications (from leather to suede and canvas) and sizes (10, 12, 15 and 17 inches) throughout the years.

Immediately recognisable by those in the know, the Margaux has evolved into a subtle emblem of status thanks to its slouchy shape and belted gusseted side panels. Despite a price tag oscillating between $3,490 and $6,850, searches for the hard-to-find tote bag have increased 198% year-on-year on Lyst, with the accessory often selling out. “The whole exercise was to see whether, if something was made beautifully, in great fabric, with good fit, it would sell without a logo or a name on it,” Mary-Kate and Ashley once explained to British Vogue. “And it worked.”

But if the Margaux and other bags such as the Half Moon and the Sofia have reached cult status, The Row has more to offer than just accessories.

With thoughtful quality details such as silk lining and concealed horn buttons, the brand’s oversized Dhani coat is an indulgent piece you’ll be wearing for years to come. Highly versatile, the Gala pants come in many colour and fabric variations; their cut and proportions will add a touch of sophistication to any outfit, but their elasticated waist will ensure you remain comfortable all day long.

The humble t-shirt also has an important place in The Row’s lineup. Back in 2006, it was the search for the perfect tee that inspired Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen to launch their label, and it became one of the original seven pieces that they designed for the brand. Made from soft cotton, the Ashton has a relaxed fit and classic crew neckline, making it endlessly versatile.

Over the past two decades, few fashion houses have inspired the same levels of devotion as The Row. The secret to the brand’s success lies in its dedication to timeless, quiet and meticulously curated pieces, which act as the perfect contrast to the never-ending cycle of fast-paced, social-media-friendly trends.